Wednesday, 16 May 2018

Paris, Je T'Adore

Well, I arrived in Paris on Monday afternoon after a bit of a challenging journey from Rotterdam.  I knew the French trains were doing rolling strikes so had expected some delays so I was delighted when I checked with the TI in Station Centraal to find that my train would be going on time.  However, sitting on the platform, I noticed things were pretty quiet so I went and checked only to find out the 11:58 train had been cancelled because of an "unscheduled event" (that often means a suicide which later someone told me was the issue).  So, the next direct train was 2 hours later and, of course, it was packed with nowhere to sit.  So much for my 1st Class Thalys (the company) ticket promising me drinks, a meal AND a seat!  I found one of 4 uncomfortable little "jump seats" between two coaches and crammed myself into one.  It wasn't fun.  The train manager actually came by and when she found out we all had 1st class tickets, she brought us water and suggested we complain to the company.  You can be sure I did that as soon as I got to Paris.  And, then when I got to Paris, I found some of the regional trains weren't running and the traffic was ridiculous - even more that usual.  The taxis had a flat rate to go anywhere in the city so I had to fork over 30 Euros to get to my hotel.  Given how tired, hungry and cranky I was, I didn't care.  Once at the hotel, things got better and I went just around the corner and had a lovely dinner.  



My train announcement:  2 hours later than planned!


Tuesday, after I "sussed out" where the apartment is located that I will move to on Thursday, I did a free walking tour of the Marais.  I am fairly familiar with this part of Paris but there is always something new to learn and Patrick, our guide, was great - well informed and quite funny.  There were only about 8 of us including Margot and David from Victoria whom I'd told about the tour.  We saw Place des Vosges, Hotel Sully (actually a palace), and the Jewish Quarter.  There is no question that I love this part of Paris.  There are shops, restaurants, and bars everywhere; and, there is a certain charm to this area.  




The Oldest Synagogue in Paris

The Oldest "Listed" Buildings in Paris (and yes, they are also "listing"!)
After the tour was over (it lasted about 90 minutes), Margot, David and I went for a drink in the square in front of the Centre Georges Pompidou.  We were going to go up to the roof but it was closed for a private event.  Still, sitting in the sunshine at Cafe Parvis sipping our drinks was lovely.



Wednesday, I had a couple of "chores" to do, including mailing home some clothes I had unnecessarily brought with me (not sure what I was thinking when I packed) then I did another walking tour.  This one is called Flavors of Paris.  I was the only person on the tour and the guide, who started the company, is from Toronto.  It took me about 1/2 hour to get to the meeting place which was Eglise Saint Germain des Pres but it was lovely to once again enjoy the lovely buildings along the way:  the fountain near Centre Georges Pompidou, Hotel de Ville and the Conciergerie.





Lisa was great and I had a wonderful time learning more about the history of some of the most famous hangouts in that part of Paris - Les Deux Magots, Cafe de Flore and Brasserie Lipp - where people like Sartre, Picasso, and de Beauvoir used to sit around.   
Inside Eglise Saint Germain des Pres





From there, we walked to several specialty shops - a famous bakery (Eric Kayser, an award-winning bread maker), a little pastry shop, a peak into Le Procope (where Margot and David were going for dinner last evening), a wonderful Provencal epicerie where I bought some interesting food items, and a stop at market hall where we had a cheese board, pate and wine.  Along the way, Lisa spotted a guy sitting on a curb outside a restaurant.  She told me he is an award-winning pastry chef, Nicolas Bacheyre, at the 1 star Michelin restaurant, Un Dimanche a Paris.  I will have to Google him!
  
Eric Kayser's Bakery (with franchises all over the world
(breads, croissants, etc. in the case)


Some of the amazing pastries

Famous restaurant where Napoleon left his hat as payment 


The award winning pastry chef

Above and below, the wonderful food items at 1830 Epicerie Fine et Confiserie


My cheese board which was served with a Provencal Rose - yummy!
Then, after over 3 1/2 hours the tour was over and I was tired.  It was still about a 35 minute walk back to my hotel.  So, I crossed over the Seine to the Right Bank and, after over 20,000 steps, I was "home", well at least where my home is for one more night!  



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