Estonia's Tallinn

On May 5^th, we docked in Tallinn, the capital of Estonia.  A friend from my high school days had sent me some Rick Steves’ notes about a walking tour of the town.  So, I met up with some new cruise friends, a couple from Australia and a retired veterinarian from Toronto and we ignored all the Hop On/Hop Off buses and taxis lined up at the terminal and proceeded on our own to walk the short distance (about 15 minutes) to the gates of the old town.

From the notes, we learned that the city once consisted of two feuding medieval towns separated by a wall.  The upper town, on the hill and called Toompea, was the seat of government ruling Estonia.  The lower town was an autonomous Hanseatic trading centre filled with German, Danish, and Swedish merchants who hired Estonians to do their menial labour.  Two narrow streets (the “Long Leg” and the “Short Leg”) connect Toompea and the lower town.

We started our visit by entering the Old Town through the archway by Fat Margaret Tower.  We walked along Pikka Street as the notes suggested.  This medieval street leads from the harbour up into town.  Along this street are sinister reminders of the communist rule including the building now used by the ministry of police which was formerly the headquarters of the KGB. 

 

The Old Town

Fat Margaret Tower and the Gate to the Town

 The town hall square was our next stop, although to be truthful I did stop at a shop called Oh La La where I treated myself to a lovely Baltic amber bracelet!  We decided to stop at the square for a break.  This area has been a market place for centuries.  It is lined with fine old buildings.  The 15^th century town hall (Raekoda) dominates the square.  There is also a pharmacy which dates from 1422 (to be honest, I didn’t read that part of the notes until I was back on the ship so I missed it).  The square is ringed with restaurants and cafes.  I should note that I paid more for an ice tea here than I would have anywhere in France!  It was €5.  

The main square

An Orthodox Church at the top of the hill

The walk up the hill was not at all difficult and certainly it wasn’t steep (or maybe those 15,000 steps I am doing most days are reaping some benefit) than what was predicted in the notes!  The other explanation might be that we took the easier of the two streets leading up to the top of the hill.  Once you get there, in addition to an impressive Orthodox church, there are two viewpoints:  Kohtuotsa and Patkuli.  Both give stunning views across the city and out to the harbour.  The red tiled rooftops of the town are very pretty and, in the distance and a distinct contrast, are the extremely modern buildings of the newer part of the city.  

I have to say that, so far, this has been my favourite stop on the cruise itinerary.  I really enjoyed Warnemunde, Wismar and Schwarin but this town has a certain charm that is undeniable.  After our walk around the upper and lower towns, we slowly made our way back to the port with a brief stop at a marzipan shop on Pikka Street.  Back on ship and reading the walking notes more thoroughly, I realize I could/should have read them more carefully either before or while I was walking around.  I’d say “next time” but I am not sure there will be one as I don’t see returning here even though I liked it.

From the ship notes:

Look to the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland and find Estonia’s largest city and capital.  With evidence of settlement dating back 5,000 years, Tallinn offers a myriad of cultural sites and unique architecture, most notably in Old Town, which was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1997.

This charming village in bustling Tallinn has been surprisingly well-preserved, serving as a popular tourist destination and shopping hub.  Find cobblestone streets, well-maintained parks, and medieval homes in this historical area, dating back to the 13^th century.

With a port that is not easily accessible to Western Europe, Tallinn's tourism industry has seen a boost in recent years.  Sites such as St. Olaf’s Church, St. Catherine’s Passage, and Kadriorg Palace draw thousands of visitors each year.

Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s modern city center features Freedom Square.  With benches, cafes, and two art galleries, this popular gathering place services as the city’s Monument to the War of Independence, which commemorates Estonia’s struggle for freedom from 1918-1920.

Rotermann Quarter provides a trendy shopping area with an open-air food and craft market and popular department stores.  Make your way to the coastal district of Pirita and wander along the marina that was built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics.