St. Petersburg - The First Day of "Over the Top" Opulence!

This cruise offered a two-day stopover in St. Petersburg which, for me, was the real appeal of this voyage.  I had no idea if or when another opportunity would come up for me to see this renowned city with its colourful and often tragic history.

I had opted to purchase a private tour, in spite of the cruise company almost scaring you into buying one of their packages.  I went with a company called SPB and the price (better than Holland America’s by around $100) also included a Russian visa which purchased on its own is something like $150 CAD.  We arrived in St. Petersburg on May 6^th and, after a very slow Passport Control, made our way out to our tour van.  We were a group of only 15 with Olga as our guide and Valeri for our driver. 

As we headed into the city from the port, I was struck by the number of typical Communist-style apartment buildings, tall cement blocks with almost no aesthetic appeal.  The outskirts of the city seemed pretty grim – not a lot of colour, a few trees and run-down streets and sidewalks.  

At least this building had some grass!

Then, we reached the city – which is nicknamed “Venice of the North”.  The reason is that it sits on several rivers and canals and is actually made up of a number of small islands.  When we reached the old town, the architecture changed from the run down Soviet structures to one of gorgeous 18th and 19th century buildings, many of which are former palaces.  Visually, it was stunning, particularly given that the early morning fog had burned off and the sun caused the golden domes to sparkle brilliantly.  On our journey, Olga reminded us that this city has had many names in addition to its current one, including Stalingrad, Leningrad and Petersgrad. 

We started our visit with a quick photo op by the Neva River followed by a subway ride on one of the deepest undergrounds in the world.  We travelled from a station near a sports venue to Admiral Station.  Both stations were clean and very artfully decorated, mostly with mosaics honoring the seafaring history of the city. 

Our Guide, Olga

After that, we re-boarded our van for the short drive to the Hermitage, our first stop.  Palace Square, behind the Hermitage, was packed with people, soldiers and military materiel who were rehearsing for the ceremonies that would take place on May 9^th, the national holiday.  As we lined up at the museum entrance, some artillery was being tested with big loud booms, sounding like bombs, echoing across the city. 

The Hermitage, actually several separate buildings has one of the biggest art collections in the world.  Our timed visit, which made entry quick and easy, started in the Winter Palace which is the main complex of the museum.  The palace includes the museum’s most famous halls including major highlights such as the Jordan staircase, the Raphael Loggias, and the Pavilion Hall with the famous Peacock clock.  The sheer opulence of the rooms was mind-blowing before you even consider the millions and millions of dollars (Euros, rubles, etc.) of artwork which is owned by this museum.  Our guide told us only about 20% of the collection is displayed.  My cynical mind wondered how much of the collection was obtained by nefarious means, particularly during the war.  I lost track of the number of famous works of art we saw (both paintings and statues) by Leonardo di Vinci, El Greco, Canova, Rembrandt, and others.  I am not well versed in art so a lot of what I saw was lost on me.  One thing was clear to me, however, and that was we didn’t enough time to appreciate what we were seeing.  The sheer volume was serious stimulus overload!  How sad is it when you walk through a gallery and the guide is saying things like, “Oh, there’s another di Vinci on that wall and over there are several Rembrandts”!  The 1 ½ hours we had there didn’t come close to doing justice to this site.  You would need days!

Next we visited St. Isaac’s Cathedral which is the largest cathedral in the city and the fourth largest in the world.  It has the classic Russian Orthodox “onion domes” and is pretty impressive both inside and out.  Again, the opulence was simply over the top.

After a tasty lunch, our next stop was the Church of Our Savior the Spilled Blood.  This is the Orthodox cathedral where Alexander II was fatally wounded.  It is richly decorated both inside and out.  The mosaic interior is incredible and, once again, made me wonder how many people suffered to create this amazing display of extravagance.  It was around then that I started getting very weary of all the details – history, icons, art, family trees, etc.  I cannot keep it all straight!

Next on the agenda for this very full and almost overwhelming day was the Yusupov Palace where Rasputin was murdered.  Although not of royal lineage, the Yusupov family was exceptionally wealthy and had great influence in Russia.  Their residence, situated on the bank of the Moyka River, showcases ornately designed rooms, stairwells and a stunning private theatre.  A visit to the room where Rasputin was murdered was included which, I have to say, was a bit creepy with the wax figurines re-enacting the murder.  Of note is that unless you buy a permission sticker, photos are not permitted in the palace.  One American in another group asked a guy coming out of the palace for his sticker so he didn’t have to pay for one.  Several of us were surprised or maybe even shocked by his behaviour.  What nerve!

After our visit to the palace, we were given an opportunity to “shop”.  I find this really annoying as we are dropped at a store that is obviously associated either with the tour company or the cruise line.  I doubt there are any bargains – but I really wasn’t interested in shopping anyway.  There were Russian boxes that I used to covet in the early ‘80s and lots of amber.  Unfortunately, the lovely black and gold bracelet I priced was over €800 so that wasn’t on, and I ignored the fake Faberge eggs and Russian nesting dolls – including one “official” one of Putin and Trump.  Talk about tacky!

Our last stop of the day and, believe me, I was ready for it because I was tired and just wanted to get back to the ship, was the Peter and Paul Fortress and Cathedral.  First established in 1703, the original timber fortress was one of the first structures erected in the city.  This area has since played an important role in the history of the city and the country, not only for its military significance but also as a political prison, as well as the burial site of the Russian Tsars.  The Romanovs whose bodies were not definitively identified until this century with DNA technology have finally been given a resting place here.  The mystery about whether Anastasia had escaped and survived has been solved:  unfortunately, her remains were found with the others along with some servants’ and attendants’.  Outside the building, there is also a memorial to the thousands and thousands (maybe it was millions) of fighters who lost their lives standing up against the Nazis to save this city during the siege in World War II.

Final resting place of the Romanovs

After that, our very long day came to an end.  Back in the port, the lines for passport control to get back on the ship were very long and slow.  I think it took between ½ and ¾ hour to get through.  A number of Americans blamed the delay on the Russians being annoyed that the US Consulate here has been closed and extra visa requirements have been put on Russians wanting to visit the US.  Who knows but it was very bureaucratic!

I have to say that, while St. Petersburg is amazing and beautiful, it is also so opulent and extravagant in the old part that you have to wonder why there weren’t revolutions here sooner than there were! 

The following notes are from the information about St. Petersburg provided by Holland America:

Located at the tip of the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea, St. Petersburg is Russia’s second largest city and serves as a major European cultural hotspot and a bustling port for the area.  Often described as the most “western” Russian city, St. Petersburg offers a gateway for trading along with an industrial focus on oil and gas grade.  With so many sites to see it will be hard to know where to start.  You’ll want to visit the Hermitage, which is the largest art museum in the world.

Founded in the 18^th century by Catherine the Great, the museum holds close to 3 million items, including the largest collection of paintings in the world.  Head to the Griboedova Canal and marvel at the Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood.  With its gold draping, intricate architecture, and haunting mosaics, this church has often been called an icon of St. Petersburg.  Prepare for long lines but plenty of photo opportunities abound inside and out.

Wander the historic city center, which was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, and peruse collections of Baroque and neoclassical buildings.

Head to the shore of the Neva near Trinity Square and visit the oldest remaining historical building, which was erected for Peter I in 1703.  Make your way to Peterhof Palace and Garden and wander the grounds that were built for Peter the Great.  See more than 80 original statues and sculptures and a two-story building that displays many historical artifacts.

Estonia's Tallinn

On May 5^th, we docked in Tallinn, the capital of Estonia.  A friend from my high school days had sent me some Rick Steves’ notes about a walking tour of the town.  So, I met up with some new cruise friends, a couple from Australia and a retired veterinarian from Toronto and we ignored all the Hop On/Hop Off buses and taxis lined up at the terminal and proceeded on our own to walk the short distance (about 15 minutes) to the gates of the old town.

From the notes, we learned that the city once consisted of two feuding medieval towns separated by a wall.  The upper town, on the hill and called Toompea, was the seat of government ruling Estonia.  The lower town was an autonomous Hanseatic trading centre filled with German, Danish, and Swedish merchants who hired Estonians to do their menial labour.  Two narrow streets (the “Long Leg” and the “Short Leg”) connect Toompea and the lower town.

We started our visit by entering the Old Town through the archway by Fat Margaret Tower.  We walked along Pikka Street as the notes suggested.  This medieval street leads from the harbour up into town.  Along this street are sinister reminders of the communist rule including the building now used by the ministry of police which was formerly the headquarters of the KGB. 

 

The Old Town

Fat Margaret Tower and the Gate to the Town

 The town hall square was our next stop, although to be truthful I did stop at a shop called Oh La La where I treated myself to a lovely Baltic amber bracelet!  We decided to stop at the square for a break.  This area has been a market place for centuries.  It is lined with fine old buildings.  The 15^th century town hall (Raekoda) dominates the square.  There is also a pharmacy which dates from 1422 (to be honest, I didn’t read that part of the notes until I was back on the ship so I missed it).  The square is ringed with restaurants and cafes.  I should note that I paid more for an ice tea here than I would have anywhere in France!  It was €5.  

The main square

An Orthodox Church at the top of the hill

The walk up the hill was not at all difficult and certainly it wasn’t steep (or maybe those 15,000 steps I am doing most days are reaping some benefit) than what was predicted in the notes!  The other explanation might be that we took the easier of the two streets leading up to the top of the hill.  Once you get there, in addition to an impressive Orthodox church, there are two viewpoints:  Kohtuotsa and Patkuli.  Both give stunning views across the city and out to the harbour.  The red tiled rooftops of the town are very pretty and, in the distance and a distinct contrast, are the extremely modern buildings of the newer part of the city.  

I have to say that, so far, this has been my favourite stop on the cruise itinerary.  I really enjoyed Warnemunde, Wismar and Schwarin but this town has a certain charm that is undeniable.  After our walk around the upper and lower towns, we slowly made our way back to the port with a brief stop at a marzipan shop on Pikka Street.  Back on ship and reading the walking notes more thoroughly, I realize I could/should have read them more carefully either before or while I was walking around.  I’d say “next time” but I am not sure there will be one as I don’t see returning here even though I liked it.

From the ship notes:

Look to the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland and find Estonia’s largest city and capital.  With evidence of settlement dating back 5,000 years, Tallinn offers a myriad of cultural sites and unique architecture, most notably in Old Town, which was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1997.

This charming village in bustling Tallinn has been surprisingly well-preserved, serving as a popular tourist destination and shopping hub.  Find cobblestone streets, well-maintained parks, and medieval homes in this historical area, dating back to the 13^th century.

With a port that is not easily accessible to Western Europe, Tallinn's tourism industry has seen a boost in recent years.  Sites such as St. Olaf’s Church, St. Catherine’s Passage, and Kadriorg Palace draw thousands of visitors each year.

Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s modern city center features Freedom Square.  With benches, cafes, and two art galleries, this popular gathering place services as the city’s Monument to the War of Independence, which commemorates Estonia’s struggle for freedom from 1918-1920.

Rotermann Quarter provides a trendy shopping area with an open-air food and craft market and popular department stores.  Make your way to the coastal district of Pirita and wander along the marina that was built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

Mega Mecklenburg

Before this cruise, I had never been to north Germany - actually, nowhere much further north than Frankfurt.  Thursday, we docked in the port of Warnemunde and I took a tour with Friends of Dave called The Mega Mecklenburg Tour.  This company is, in fact, a company with just two guys – Dave, the guy who founded and manages it and a guy named Christian, a Warnemunde native, who was our guide for the day.  This tour lived up to both its 5-star rating and the high recommendation given by Rick Steves.  It was fabulous.  The ship promoted an excursion to Berlin but that is about a 2 1/2 to 3 hour drive each way from the port.  So, I opted to see Mecklenburg instead. I love Berlin but wasn’t interested in spending such a long day without more return for that amount of time.

Warnemunde is at the mouth of the Warne River.  We started the tour in that town, walking through its charming streets and to its lovely beach.  Many of the little houses were former fisherman cottages which now sell for up to €1.2 million.  Christian told us how the houses are gradually being bought up by richer people and then rented out for a lot of the year.  This seems to be a pattern in a lot of places, Victoria included.  Our walk here included a visit to the beach and seeing what are called ‘beach buckets’, little covered chairs with storage and seating for two.  They were everywhere not just on the beach, including in cafes.  There is a picturesque lighthouse here as well.

A "Beach Bucket"

  

Then, we boarded a bus for the trip to Wismar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  One of the reasons for the designation is its gothic brick churches, one of which was bombed in the war.  We arrived in the town square on market day and there is no question this is a pretty little town.  We saw one street called “Tit Grabber Street” (yes, really!) which was named that because it was there where the prostitutes waited for the men when they came back from being at sea.  Hmmm!
  

The aforementioned street sign!

We continued on seeing both the churches which were built in the 14^th century with an estimated 4 million bricks each.  While the main part of one church (Marienkirche) was destroyed, St. Georges was damaged (lost its roof) but has now been be restored.  While both were similar to the stone gothic churches you see in other countries – Notre Dame, Salisbury Cathedral, for example – the fact they were made of bricks made them very unique.  The other thing we noticed was that the town had  a connection with Sweden.  Apparently, the town was part of Sweden at one point but later Sweden just gave it back. 

After we wandered around there, it was time for lunch at a local brewery called Brauhaus am Lohberg zu Wismar.  Our tour included lunch and a drink.  I ordered a Radler, which was about as close to a beer as I wanted.  For lunch, I had pork schnitzel with “beer sauce” which was actually onion beef gravy.  The portions were huge and served with roasted potatoes and a wonderful selection of vegetables.  It was delicious but way too big!  Of note, the food was of a much better quality than the usual fare you get when you are on a group tour.  The brewery also makes a whisky called Baltach Wismarian Single Malt Whiskey.

A building near our lunch stop

Inside the brewery restaurant

After lunch, we boarded the bus for our next destination, a town called Schwerin.  While not a designated UNESCO site, it is the capital of the Mecklenberg state and is located on a very large and pretty lake.  The town certainly has a unique charm.  We toured the old town much of which had been designed and built by someone named Demmler in various architectural styles – Italian Renaissance, Gothic, etc.  In the main square we learned about Leonis, a king, I think, who thought of himself as the Lion.  There is a three-sided statue of him in the square which was interesting to examine.  On one side, it showed the residents of the town “mooning” Leonis because he wasn’t as well liked or respected as he liked to think he was.  

The lake at Schwerin

The Leonis Statue

 There were also the standard German stores here such as Edeka and Euro Shop.  We had about 45 minutes to look around; however, because the town had free WiFi, many of us decided to visit a café in the main square and take advantage of that.  I had a “Viertal” of wine which was only €4.50.  When we regrouped, we walked through the Jewish quarter where we learned the synagogue was built in 1773, damaged in 1938 during Kristallnacht (although the plaque called in “pogromnacht”) and then rebuilt and reopened in 2008.  There were also some Stolpersteine embedded in the cobblestones.  They were yet more grim reminders of that part of Germany’s history.

We continued on and came upon the beautiful Mecklenburg castle which, while not new (built about 160 years ago) is very impressive and set in a very lovely location at the edge of the lake.  Designed by Demmler, the castle seems to have a different style of architecture on each side.  It is currently used as the legislative offices for the state.  Christian mused that putting politicians in a castle probably isn’t the best idea!  We walked around it seeing the orangerie as well as its grotto.  After that, we went for “Kaffee und Kuchen” at a nearby café before getting back on the bus for the 1 hour drive back to Warnemunde and our ship.  It was a fabulous tour and Christian was a wonderful guide.

The ship notes for this port of call were the following:

Located on the northeast coast of the Baltic Sea in Germany, the city of Warnemunde is a quaint resort town lying on a vast white-sand beach, which measures as the largest on the German Baltic Sea coast.  Like many seaside towns, Warnemunde started as a quiet fishing village in the 13^th century but is now a substantial city with more than 8,000 full-time residents.  The main industry shifted in the 19^th century to tourism, which now drives the city’s economy.  Serving as a bustling centre for boat traffic, Warnemunde of course has a fully functional lighthouse. 

Built in 1897, the tower measure 121 feet from the top, which provides a good viewing opportunity of the Baltic Sea for visitors.  After your descent, check out the intricate scale model of the solar system as you walk westward along the coastal trail.   For another panoramic view of the surroundings, take an elevator to the top of Hotel Neptun.  Grab a drink at the bar or just snap some photos. 

Spend some time at the beach simply relaxing or grab a kite and try your hand at this popular activity.  Make a stop at the Teepot, which displays unique 1960s East German architecture and houses multiple restaurants and a sea voyage exhibition.  Visit the der Alte Strom (Old Channel) portion of the canal for a walk along the promenade or to simply enjoy the sites.  Grab a bite at one of the many restaurants, sip a beverage at a pub, or grab some local delicacies at the fish market.

Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen!

As I write the words of this blog, in my head I am hearing the song from the early 1950s movie of the same name starring Danny Kaye as Hans Christian Anderson.

Anyway, on May 2nd, we docked in Copenhagen about 8 am and had until 4:30 to explore the city.  I am not sure what my expectations were as I have never been here before.  In spite of the blog title, I can't say I actually felt the magic of this city.  Maybe it is just that I just like the Med more than the Baltic.  On the Hop On/Hop Off bus (the ticket was $33 USD, I connected with the Aussies I'd met a few days earlier and we decided to tour of Denmark's capital together. 

The bus commentary wasn’t very informative and the scenery wasn’t that great.  We did go by the National Gallery, the city hall, the famous Tivoli Gardens (which from the bus looked like a tacky amusement park), and over to Christianshavn which has an area called Freetown Christiania which we didn’t see.  The tickets we had purchased did not include the canal boat ride (that was annoying) but we got off at the canal boat stop anyway and went and purchased a ticket for a one hour canal boat trip.  While it was interesting, we didn’t go up the canal to Nyhavn, the famous part of the city, but we did see some other interesting buildings (many of them with very modern architecture).  As well, we saw the Royal Palace (the Queen and Prince were in residence), the royal yacht, and, of course, the iconic “Little Mermaid” statue which seemed to have people crawling all over it.  The city opera house is set in the harbour sort of like Sydney and we also saw a building called the Black Diamond which is apparently the Danish Jewish Museum.  The canal boat trip passed under innumerable bridges and was quite interesting.

 

The National Gallery

The Royal Yacht

The Black Diamond where the Danish Jewish Museum is

The Opera House

When we got off that it was only just before noon, so we wandered along Stroget, a shopping street filled with the usual high-end store – Prada, Michael Kors, Zara, Louis Vuitton and such.  We were interested in seeing Nyhavn which is famous for its colourful buildings along the canal.  It was a short walk and we ended up having lunch there in one of the restaurants.  I had a Caesar salad with chicken and a glass of wine.  I had no Krones so paid with Euros and my lunch was €28.  Yikes!  The city is expensive.  That part of the city, however, is lovely and you can get those ‘tourist’ shots you associate with travel posters of this city. 

Above and Below:  Nyhavn, our lunch spot

After lunch, we decided to walk along the waterfront back to the ship.  It was only just over 2 km.  We had an opportunity to take more photos of some of the buildings we had tried to photograph from the canal boat.  On the other side of the Citadel, we got to the Little Mermaid.  The statue wasn’t quite as busy when we got there so we managed to get some better photos than we got from the boat.  One thing to note is that it is only about a 15 minute walk from where the ship docked.  I don’t know what I was expecting but the setting for the statue wasn’t as charming as I thought it would be.  The statue itself, however, is lovely.

The following notes about Amsterdam are from the cruise ship information:

What started as a tiny fishing village has transformed into an up-and-coming metropolitan hotspot.  Towering high-rises now adorn a landscape that, in the 11^th century, boasted a church, a market, two wells, and one large estate.  Although written record of Copenhagen’s inhabitants dates back to 1043, there is evidence that the town existed as a settlement during the Viking Age, which would make Denmark the world’s oldest kingdom.  The city’s booming success lies in its harbor.  Once an industrial powerhouse, Copenhagen is now a central hub for rich culture, high-tech science, and up-to-the minute media.

The city’s port is now a major stop for cruise ships and four waterbus lines.  Upon arrival head to the National Museum, the largest museum of archaeology and cultural history in Denmark, for a comprehensive look at Copenhagen’s rich history, complete with ancient artifacts.  Two of the world’s oldest amusement parks live in Copenhagen:  Tivoli Gardens and Dyrchavsbakken.  Both offer rides and games, and there’s even a little something for architecture buffs:  historic buildings, including the Panoramic Theater, can be found in the gardens.

Transportation is easy in Copenhagen and going “green” is highly encouraged in what is one of the most environmentally friendly cities in the world.  With bicycle paths lining nearly every street, it’s no wonder that residents cycle more than 80,000 miles a day.  If you’re looking for activities, there’s no need to empty your wallet.  Walk along Stroget for street entertainment, including a myriad of musicians, magicians, and jugglers, or venture out to one of Copenhagen’s many gardens, beaches or museums.

A couple of things I learned from my visit here were:

·      You don’t really need to use the HoHo bus to go into Copenhagen and that it is an easy walk into the town centre.  The HoHo bus ticket was expensive $33 USD and we only went on half of the route.  We started early so the traffic wasn’t bad but we heard from others it took ages to do the route.  Further, for €5 more we could have got a ticket which included a canal boat ride and we weren’t given that option.  So, we paid additional money for another canal boat tour.

·      Second, some of the restaurants take Euros but they certainly use an exchange rate that is to their advantage. 

·      Finally, while I am glad I came here and I am sure there are parts of the city I didn’t see which are lovely, my overall impression was that it wasn’t a city I would want to come back to.  So, glad I have seen it but I’m ready to move on.

All Aboard!

Monday morning, I left Amsterdam – and the drizzle and greyness – and took a train to Rotterdam.  I need to make note of another learning:  I thought I had purchased a direct train but I had to change trains in Leiden.  With luggage, it is important to buy direct train journeys whenever possible.  In spite of having just 4 minutes to change trains, it was actually pretty easy as we arrived on a platform which was just across from the one where the other train would depart.  As we headed south to the departure city for the Holland America cruise, we passed canals, windmills, boathouses, and tulip fields which, in spite of the weather, were vibrant in their colours of red, yellow and bright pink.  It was all the things you conjure up when you think of Dutch stereotypes.

Arriving at the Rotterdam Centraal station, I thought a cab would be the easiest way to get to the cruise ship terminal but checked to confirm that with the TI office.  While I was doing that, I started chatting with an Australia  couple who were also going on the cruise.  We we decided to share a ride.  It only cost €19 and it was sure easier than taking trams and walking.

The check-in for the cruise went pretty smoothly and not long afterwards, I found myself in a stateroom that was about twice the size of my hotel room in Amsterdam!  It was lovely as was the bottle of bubbly provided by my agent’s company.  I was off to a good start.  I was thrilled.

This cruise is going to take me to places I have never seen before:  Copenhagen, Denmark; Warnemunde in Northern Germany; Tallinn, Estonia; St. Petersburg, Russia; Helsinki in Sweden; and Sweden’s capital, Stockholm.  Then, it will finish back in Rotterdam.

We started by sailing down the Meuse River to the North Sea.  Along the way, we passed lots of industrial areas but also saw some amazing architecture.  The quality of the photos isn’t great as I took them through a window but they will give you some idea.

A Dutch Choir giving us a Musical Send-off

 For dinner, I went to the dining room and was seated with some other "solos" from Florida.  I guess this is actually a repositioning cruise which started in Tampa. On the way back to my stateroom, I bumped into some people I know from Victoria.  What a small world and I am seeing them for drinks and dinner on Tuesday, which is going to be an "at sea" day.  Of course, there will still be lots to do on the ship.  So, I'm off and things are looking great!